The core of the orchid is rotten: what should I do if the growth point on the trunk or the neck at the base of the leaf is affected, what is the best way to process the flower?

Orchids, like other living organisms, tend to undergo diseases. This is mainly due to mistreatment, harmful insects, as well as content parameters.

Florists are strongly advised to carefully inspect the plant when buying in a store, because most of the symptoms are determined visually. In order not to acquire a diseased plant, and not to infect the rest of the pets.

The main cause of rotting of the core of an orchid is the presence of pathogenic bacteria and fungi.

Definition and external signs of rotting the trunk

Rot is a general definition of diseases caused by phytopathogenic fungi and bacteria. In the process of development, rotting leads to damage to leaf blades, stem, roots, at a more advanced stage - to complete decay, drying out and the early death of decorative flowers.

Read more about why orchids rot leaves and what to do about it, read here.

External symptoms: small, dark spots appear on the stem or at the base of the exotica, which grow over time. This phenomenon entails yellowing or darkening of the leaves at the base, which massively fall off.

The general condition of orchids is characterized by:

weakness
loss of turgor;
decorative qualities are deteriorating;
reduced flowering time;
photosynthesis processes are often inhibited;
growth is suspended.

Effects

The most dangerous thing is when a flower begins to rot from the middle, because a large number of orchid varieties has only one growth point. When it dies, the plant will not be able to continue development, and after it dies.

Also, with the decay of the core or neck, the orchid loses its foliage. Leaves become soft, less resilient. They fall off the stem, the plant develops like a constructor. Next, the root system is damaged. In detail about how to save an orchid, if the roots deteriorate or have already decayed, read this material.

With an excess of humidity in the room, the affected areas of the plant are overgrown with spores of rot, which can spread to nearby flowers. If you do not take emergency measures in time and eliminate the cause of the spread of rot. Only in this way, the orchid can be saved from imminent death. After all, in the later stages nothing will help.

Causes of decay

There are a lot of factors leading to the appearance of rot. It is necessary to understand them in detail.

Mechanical damage

Rot may result from falling or injuring parts of the plant. After that, first aid was not provided. The damaged part was not treated with an antiseptic in time, and as a result, the rot of the stem.

Frostbite

Inexperienced growers carelessly about watering. They arrange a warm shower for the flower, at the same time, the water remains in the axils of the leaves. In the summer, of course, there is nothing to worry about. At high air temperature and bright sun, in a couple of hours from the water there will be no trace. That's just if you put a completely wet plant under the scorching rays of the sun. As a result, damage from overheating, which will be similar to symptoms as from hypothermia.

Things are worse in winter if the window sill on which the stone orchid is standing, and cold air penetrates through the frame. Then the liquid in the tissue spaces will not evaporate, but will remain for a long time.

Excessive moisture in low light

Often each orchid has its own light limit. Above which it grows and develops, and below it sleeps. In plants at rest, vital processes are suspended, they do not need fertilizing with mineral fertilizers, frequent watering. At this moment, the flower does not absorb that amount of moisture as, for example, in the growth phase, so the excess accumulates and causes decay.

Fungal and bacterial infections

Violation of the microclimate in the room leads to the development of infectious diseases. Still similar is possible if the quarantine regime is not respected. If fungal and bacterial infections are detected, the diseased flower should be urgently isolated from healthy ones, because the infection spreads very quickly.

You can learn more about what to do if an orchid has fusarium, as well as see a photo of this fungal disease here.

Signs of defeat

The presence of rot on orchids is determined based on the presence of the following symptoms:

leaves lose their elasticity, bright color, tone;
a brown tint appears at the base of the leaf;
rapid death of green mass;
the appearance of dark spots on the neck or trunk;
brown spots are observed on the inflorescences;
greenish traces of sporulation can be seen on the walls of the pot;
shaky, unstable upper part of the plant.

What is better to handle?

The most effective drugs for the prevention and treatment of the process of decay are considered fungicides. These are funds that eliminate the causative agents of fungal diseases in representatives of the flora. Components of fungicides are:

copper;
manganese;
mercury;
organic matter;
aldehydes.

Popular remedies for fighting rot:

Fitosporin-M suitable for the treatment of fungal and bacterial diseases.
Quadrix - a broad-spectrum preparation, made on the basis of the substance azoxystrobin, is used for prophylactic and treated purposes.
Blue vitriol based on copper sulfate, a positive effect is observed after 3 hours.
Mikosan useful in the initial stages of the development of the disease, activates the work of lectins, stimulates the immune system.
Bordeaux fluid, also made on the basis of a solution of copper. Also included is lime to lower the acidity of the soil.

If the flower has minor damage, that is, the infection is in the initial stages, then you can use folk remedies:

Iodine solution. Dilute 5 drops of the substance into 5 liters of water, spray the plant 1 time per week.
Garlic tincture. 100 g of husk with garlic infuse in 10 liters of warm water for a day.
Mustard infusion. 50 g of mustard powder is poured with 5 liters of hot liquid. This mixture is worth 2 days in a dark place, diluted with water 1: 1 before use.

At later stages, it will not cope without chemistry. Of course, alternative methods are simple to perform, neither toxic nor harmful, but not always effective. They can be used as a prophylaxis.

Instructions on what to do depending on the affected part of the plant

Orchids are quite susceptible to all sorts of diseases. Therefore, it is important to immediately recognize the signs in order to understand what to do if the growth point, core or neck at the base of the leaf decays. Unfortunately, representatives of the Orchid family are often affected by rot. This is directly related to improper conditions of detention.

Growth point

The first step is to determine the cause of the disease. If all the fault is mechanical damage, overheating, or hypothermia, then isolating the plant is not necessary. If there is a peduncle with buds, it should be pruned, leaving part of the stem with 2-3 buds.

What to do if the growth point has decayed? The treatment will be as follows:

Remove all damaged tissue so that there are no dark places anywhere.
Sanitize slices.
For infectious diseases in orchids or as a precaution against infection, topical fungicides should be used.
Inspect the diseased flower regularly for rotting to resume.
The buds on the peduncle can be treated with cytokinin hormone paste to stimulate the appearance of children.

Core

In order for the rot not to spread inside the flower, operational measures should be taken:

Remove all rotten spots to living tissue.
It is possible to remove the entire core.
After each cut, treat the tool with alcohol.
Burn wounds with iodine or brilliant green, ground cinnamon, activated charcoal.
Monitor the condition of the plant.
If after some time you notice the appearance of new rot, then repeat the stripping procedure.

Neck

Symptoms of rot: leaves turn yellow, fall off the neck of the stem. Visually, the disease is difficult to see, because rot occurs in the neck itself.

Causes:

frequent watering;
long nailing in moist soil;
low ambient temperature.

Treatment:

Prepare a sharp blade and disinfect.
We cut off the entire rotten part of the neck to living tissue.
With a blade, we clean the slices.
Treat the soil and the plant with a 0.2% solution of the drug Fundazole or Topsin. Pour the drug directly into the wound of the plant.
The procedure is carried out at least three times with an interval of 2 weeks.
We put the pot in its original place, we expect the appearance of a side baby.

Prevention

At the first time after amputation, be sure to adhere to the following recommendations:

Maintaining a comfortable temperature in summer: + 22-25ºС, in winter + 16-18ºС. The difference in temperature differences should not exceed 5ºС. Fungal infections develop at temperatures above + 25 ° C and high humidity, and bacterial infections develop at temperatures below + 15 ° C.
Humidity within 50-60%.
In the first week, do not water, and then 1 time in 7-10 days, in between the soil should completely dry.
Be sure to remove stagnant water in the axils of the leaves after watering.
Exclude the use of mineral preparations.
Lighting requires diffused, not bright.
Ventilate the room regularly, but cold air should not enter the orchid.

It is important for all orchid lovers to remember: the plant is exposed to the disease only in a weakened state. When an exotic flower has good immunity, it is not afraid of anything. Follow the basic rules for care, then you will not have to take emergency measures.